Canon

Canon Cameras

Color Space and Your Camera

If you are only using print and not using the web, then don't bother reading this blog post. For the rest of us, this is one of the most important and fundamental to photography and the web. BTW ain't you reading this on the web?

Go to this web page: http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/color-spaces-page2 but not yet, let me first explain. You will need to have Javascript enabled on your web browser to analyse the web page.

There a big photograph that you can view in the various color spaces: sRGB, AdobeRBG, ColorMatch, ProPhoto, WideRGB and AppleRGB.

Canon 7D: 6 Customs Settings

According to the manual, the Canon 7D has 3 customs settings: C1, C2 and C3. Contrarily to the manual, I use 6 custom settings.

  1. I paid full price when the Canon 7D came out in September 2010.
  2. I want to get my money's worth.
  3. I'm special ;)

Like everybody else, I first used the C1, C2, and the C3 Camera User settings.

  • C1: My basic Av default setup, ISO 400, f/6.3, Daylight, Zone Af, and High speed continuous.

Canon: 7DMk2 Wish List

I have from good authority that the gnomes, aka engineers, at Canon are working on the 7D's successor. Since, to my greatest dismay, they didn't ask from my opinion, I will still give it to them.

  • Resolution: 18 megapixels is enough. An increase of the resolution to 24 megapixels doesn't look good. When I compared my 18 megapixels photos with a Sony α77 and its 24 megapixels, the quality of the photos was not to my liking. Obviously, it must not be to Nikon's liking either, they still haven't come out with their D400 and the 24 megapixels sensor which has been shipping since Oct-2011 on the α77 and the NEX-7 (19-Apr-2012: Nikon just announced the D3200, with the Sony 24 megapixels sensor, to replace the D3100 but still no D400).
  • Speed: I'm happy with the 8 frames per second.

Canon: Focusing Modes: Why & When

Canon has extremely sophisticated focusing systems, but there are still people that can't make them work. Most of the problems are due to the fact that they do not understand how Canon has designed them to fit all the various possibilities/combinations. I explained it on DPReview.com. Here it is in a slightly different format.

One Shot

The AF assumes that the subject is static

  • If the subject is static, The AF will achieve focus immediately and that's it, you can remove your finger from the back button, it won't keep on focusing.
  • If the subject is moving, the photos will be out of focus.

AI Servo

Flash: Fired but Severly Underexposed. Why?

The other evening, I took this photo:

Flash didn't fire properly

The flash didn't fire properly

The photo is taken f/5.6 1/80s ISO 800 with the flash. I didn't have an external flash with me and just wanted to add some light, f/2.8 1/40s and ISO 1600 or 3200 would have been good enough.

There are 2 exposures:

  • The ambient light, it's enough to give the feeling of the area/background.

Canon 7D: Why is my 1st Photo Fuzzy?

One of the common problem with the Canon 7D, 60D and 1DMk4… is that the first couple of photographs are fuzzy, and all the other photos after that are sharp and crisp.

The 2 major causes are:

  1. The IS/VR, in the Canon lingo: Image Stabilization, in the Nikon lingo: Vibration Reduction in the Nikon world
  2. The focus

Image Stabilization/Vibration Reduction

In Canon and Nikon cameras, the image stabilization (VR in Nikon) is in the lens. The other camera manufacturers followed Olympus' lead when it created the image stabilization directly in the camera body.

The image stabilization/vibration reduction uses some motion sensors and 1 or 2 micro-gyroscopes to shift, either some element of the lens, or the CMOS/CCD sensor. Basically, it introduces another movement to counter-act your movement. You can see it in action if you mount a “not a new generation” IS/VR lens on a tripod with mode 1 enabled with the head slightly loose, then the camera will start to drift.

It takes half a second for the Image Stabilization/Vibration Reduction to kick in. This means that the IS/VR engages half a second after the focus has been engaged. The IS/VR has started, but it hasn't achieved stabilization yet. It can take between another ½ sec to another full second to achieve stabilization. With the new Canon L lenses and the new Nikon VRII lenses, when the IS/VR has been achieved after another second, the IS/VR reaches the Lotus position and achieves “nirvana” to give the full 4 or 5 f/stop of improvement.

Image Stabilization Canon calls it: Image Stabilization, Nikon calls it Vibration Reduction, Sony calls it SteadyShot, Pentax calls it Sensor-shift Image Stabilization, Sigma call it Optical Stabilization and so on.It's very much black magic. It's based on between two to as many as six tiny gyroscopes that track the pitch and the yaw to compensate for the pan and tilt either on the CMOS/CCD sensor or on one element in the lens. They will give you between 2 f/stops to as many as 5 f/stops, it depends on the technology and the circumstances.The secret to using the IS/VR/SS… is keep engaging it, usually by keeping the finger half pressed on the shutter for more than ½ of a second to ¾ of a second and keep it there, then use the continuous shooting. The IS/VR/SS… keeps improving as you keep on shooting, especially if you are steady.Overall, the image stabilization is more effective when it's built-in the lens instead of the camera. When it's in the lens, the image stabilization is done before the focus and this help with the auto-focus. When the image stabilization is done in the camera bodyimage-stabilization.jpg — ©2011 Syv Ritch -- foto-biz.com: http://www.foto-biz.com/usageterms

2 photos taken 0.125 sec apart with Image Stabilization on for both photos

This is the equivalent of using a tripod.

Focus mode

Lightroom 4: The "Proper" Camera Defaults

I really don't like the defaults with the Process: 2012 for my Canon 7D. The Tint is too warm for my taste, the Exposure is always -0.56 and the Contrast is +24 while the Tone Curve is linear. The White is either -35 or +35 or +54.

Lightroom 4 Defaults for Canon 7D

Lightroom 4 Defaults for Canon 7D

I don't like them, so I created my own defaults for the Canon 7D in Lightroom 4.

Canon 7D: The Dioptre Adjustment

The prism contains a lot of "stuff." It's the top of the camera and houses the flash, the hot shoe for the external flash and inside, it contains the pentaprism which is according to Canon gives a vertical/horizontal coverage of approximately 100% (p253 of the manual). The prism also contains a lot of electronics and sensors like the AF sensors and the exposure control.

The pentaprism is designed so that the eye is 22mm away from the eyepiece.

Canon 7D: Selecting the AF Point Without Using the AF Point Selection Button

You can select the AF Point with the Joystick/Multi-Controller without first pressing the AF point selection/Magnify button. This applies to:

  • Single-Point AF
  • Spot AF
  • Zone AF

But you first need to configure the camera:

  1. You need to assign the Joystick/Multi-Controller to the AF Selection button with the Menu > Custom Function (2nd icon from the right) > C.Fn IV: Operation/Others > 1 Custom Controls (p 217 of the manual) > Assign the multi-controller to the AF point direct selection (p 220 of the manual).

    You need to do this only once.

Canon: 40 Megapixels

Here's a 41 megapixels photo:

North Vancouver: Edgemont Village North Vancouver: Edgemont Village north-van-edgemont-20120317-pano01.jpg — ©2012 Syv Ritch -- foto-biz.com: http://www.foto-biz.com/usageterms

Canon: 40 Megapixels, Edgemont Village — North Vancouver, BC, Canada

Here is the screen capture of the photograph size:

Syndicate content